historical maps
18th century views of my 21st century world
In the summer of 2007 I visited London, and was able to swing by one of my favourite map stores, located on a small street near
the British Museum. Normally the prices limit me to window shopping, but there are always one or two specimens that can keep
me occupied for a while. This time I stumbled across a small map in Italian showing the detailed west coast of North America. I
quickly realised that it was the published discoveries of Vancouver, made over three summers in the early 1790s. These were the
voyages that once and for all proved that the Northwest Passage and DeFuente's lakes did not exist, and literally put the region
where I was born "on the map".
The shopkeeper asked me if I was interested, and I said that it was a pity it was so small and in Italian. Oh, had I seen the other
and much larger French version? And she led me to this map.
Click on all images to enlarge in a new window.
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This is a French engraving of the map that published
Vancouver's discoveries during three voyages to the coast,
in the summers of 1792, 1793 and 1794. His mission
was to make a detailed charting of the coasts roughly
outlined by Cook, to determine whether or not the
Northwest Passage existed, and to diffuse tensions with
the Spanish at Nootka Sound.
The George Vancouver map of 1798

Spain still held claim to North America west of the Mississippi river, including the coast north of California. They were increasingly
alarmed by three competing powers who were increasing operations in the area. The British and newly independent Americans
had learnt after Cook's voyage that China was willing to pay high prices for sea otter fur. Even more troubling for the Spanish were
the Russians, who had crossed into America from the west via Siberia, and who had established posts in Alaska and as far south
as Fort Ross in northern California. The Spanish believed that possession was the fruit of discovery, but considered their own
charts top secret to avoid assisting other countries with their explorations.
In order to "plant the flag" in the region, Spain set up a post at Friendly Cove, part of Nootka Sound on the west coast of Vancouver
Island. They confiscated buildings and ships belonging to British fur traders, leading the two countries closer to war. Vancouver's
mission was to help diffuse this tension, and try to chart the region. Little did he know that the Spanish had the very same idea, and
had sent and expedition of their own with a head start of one year.
From Wikipedia:
Vancouver followed the coasts of what is now Washington and Oregon
northward. In April 1792 he encountered American Captain Robert Gray
off the coast of modern Oregon just prior to Gray's sailing up the
Columbia River.
Vancouver entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca, between Vancouver
Island and the Washington state mainland on April 29, 1792. His orders
included a survey of every bay and outlet on the west cost of the
mainland, all the way north to Alaska. Most of this work was from small
boats powered by both oars and sail because maneuvering his larger,
sail-powered vessels in uncharted waters was generally impractical.
Vancouver was the first European to enter Burrard Inlet (beyond Stanley
Park), the main harbour area of the present day City of Vancouver. This
was on June 13, 1792. He named it after his friend Sir Harry Burrard. He
surveyed Howe Sound and Jervis Inlet over the next nine days, before
returning to Point Grey (now the site of the University of British
Columbia) on June 22, 1792 (Vancouver's 35th birthday). Here he
unexpectedly met a Spanish expedition led by Dionisio Alcalá Galiano
and Cayetano Valdés y Flores and was mortified (his word) to learn they
already had a crude chart of the area prepared by another Spanish
expedition, led by Narváez, the year before. For three weeks they
cooperatively explored Georgia Strait before going their separate ways.


From Vancouver's log book, June 23, 1792:
The broken part of the coast that Mr. Whidbey had been employed in examining, was found to extend but a few miles to the
northward of the spot where his former researches had ended, forming altogether an extensive bay, which I have distinguished as
Bellingham’s Bay. It is situated behind a cluster of islands, from which a number of channels lead into it: its greatest extent in a
north and south direction, is from the latitude of 48°36’, to 48°48’; the longitude of its eastern extremity 237°50’. It every where
affords good and secure anchorage; opposite to its north point of entrance the shores are high and rocky, with some detached
rocks lying off it. Here was found a brook of most excellent water (Whatcom Creek). To the north and south of these rocky cliffs the
shores are less elevated, especially to the northward, where some of those beautiful verdant lawns were again presented to our
view. Near the north entrance into this bay, the two Spanish vessels had been descrived by Mr. Whidbey, who returned, and
communicated the intelligence to the ships: in consequence of which the Chatham weighed and spoke them off point Roberts they
having passed our ships during the night undiscovered. Having now fixed the continental shore so far as from this station was
within our reach, and having obtained sufficient observations for correcting the rate of our chronometers, every thing was
immediately re-embarked, and we were in readiness to proceed in the morning.
The Spanish had already entered "discovered" and named the Seño de Gaston, and indeed this is where Whidbey's boat ran into
the ships of the second Spanish expedition. Vancouver himself was in the small boat near what would become the city of
Vancouver, and never saw the bay. This last part of the American mainland coast to be explored was later named by Vancouver
after Sir William Bellingham. But despite what the nice historical monument says, Vancouver was not actually there himself, and
the Spanish had gotten there first. Perhaps Bellingham should change its name to the more "historically correct" Gastonia...
Vancouver's close cooperation with the Spanish is clearly shown on
this map. Shaded coasts were charted by Vancouver's team, but thin
lines show information shared from Spanish charts in the south, and
from Russian charts in the north. Since the main goal was
determining whether or not the Northwest Passage existed, the east
coast of Vancouver island was of little interest, and Vancouver relied
on the Spanish charts. Incredibly, Vancouver not only missed the
entrance to the Columbia, but sailed right by the Fraser river as well,
which does not appear on his map.
As Vancouver's smaller boats crossed the area, they left names as they filled in the gaps in the map. Some older Spanish names
stuck, such as the port of the Angels (Port Angeles), Port San Juan on Vancouver island, several of the San Juan islands and
Destruction Island, where many crew members of a Spanish expedition had been killed by Indians. Vancouver's first anchorage
was named after his ship, Port Discovery. Other places were named after the teams who first explored them, including Puget's
Sound and Whidbey Island. The first American names were also placed by Vancouver, naming Grey's Harbour after the American
fur trader, and the Columbia River after Grey's ship. The fact that the Americans had been the first to find the river was an important
argument in later territorial discussions between the British and Americans.
Although not instructed to do so by the British Government, Vancouver took formal possession of the lands for Britain in a
ceremony by Possession Sound, near present-day Everett, Washington. Vancouver was convinced that the land would make a
good colony, and what is now the Puget Lowlands of Washington State and the Lower Mainland of British Columbia were named
"New Georgia".
This map published these new places and names for the first time, and were copied in many countries and in many languages.
Some such as "New Georgia" disappeared as new borders were drawn, but many such as Bellingham Bay appeared for the first
time and remain to this day.